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Focus on Central Otago

In February 2004, Kingsley Wood took 28 First Glass customers on the First Glass South Island Wine Tour.  One of the highlights of the trip was the two days touring spectacular Central Otago.

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World Famous, World Class - and right here in NZ
When you think of spectacular wine regions in the world which famous areas spring to mind?

  • The Mosel Valley with its vertical vineyards
  • The Duoro Valley with its towering terraced vineyards
  • Paarl and Stellenbosch with their majestic mountains
  • The Loire Valley with their majestic mountains

The list could stretch for many pages and at the end how many people would have included Central Otago in their top 100 wine sites in the world. Well, anybody who has recently been in the Otago wine country will certainly have put this area high on their list. Central Otago has always been one of the world's greatest retreats, the wine industry has just made it even better.

Otago is one of the world's newest wine regions even though Romeo Bragato listed this as country suitable for grapes more than a century ago. Wine has been produced in Otago for almost 20 years but even the "pioneers" would probably now accept that in terms of quality the region really only started to come of age about 10 years ago. Its now up and running with production next year set to make Otago the 4th largest wine growing region after Marlborough, Hawkes Bay and Gisborne. In 1998 Otago had 210 hectares of producing vineyards. In 2005 there will be at least 1026 hectares. The past decade has been one of amazing development and where you once only had Black Ridge, Rippon, Gibbston Valley and Chard Farm, you now have almost 60 wineries and grape growers registered, with more to come.

Being such a new region, there was no history identifying which grape varieties were going to be most successful. In the early days there were many of the Germanic varieties planted. Some like Riesling thrive, but it's the French varieties of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris that have been the greatest success stories. At present Pinot Noir represents 68% of production but by 2006 this noble variety will have 74% of acreage followed by Pinot Gris 8%, Chardonnay 6% and Riesling 5%. The Pinot Noir plantings will be around 21% of New Zealand's total.

There is a common mistake made in thinking of Central Otago as just one wine area. This is a long way from the truth because you have numerous sub regions and where traditional plantings were in the Gibbston Valley, Alexandra and Wanaka, the overwhelming majority of production now comes from vineyards along Lake Dunstan and the Bendigo area. The Bendigo plantings are apparently greater than almost all the rest put together.

Taste the Region
If you are in Central Otago and have a couple of spare days, a car and a thirst for some fantastic wines, these are some tips on where to go.

If you're staying in fabulous Queenstown you could make an early start and drive straight through to Alexandra - approximately 1½ hours or you could decide on a full day in the Bannockburn area which is close to Cromwell, 1 hour from Queenstown. There are not a lot of wineries in Bannockburn but they are all recommended stops.

Felton Road, the actual road has 2 wineries and one vineyard. Start with Felton Road winery at the far end, the tasting room is rather spartan but the wines are world class and the view spectacular. Sadly Felton Road sells out of wine rather quickly each vintage but the Dry Riesling and sweet Block One Riesling are superb and of course the Pinot Noirs are as good as they come in New Zealand.

Only a few metres along the road you will find Olssens Garden Vineyard and while they have their wines made off site, the delightful setting and excellent Pinot Noirs ensure the visit is memorable.

A few hundred metres back along Felton Road you will find the highly rated Mt Difficulty winery. High above the winery is their cafe and tasting room and the view from here has to be the best in the region. The Mt Difficulty wines range from very good to excellent. The 2002 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir is truly outstanding and there are several single vineyard wines that show just what can be achieved in the region.

Only 5 minutes south of Felton Road you will find the Carrick and Bannockburn Heights (Akarua) wineries. Akarua wines have been grabbing headlines with gold medals and trophies over the past year and even more success has come in the 2004 NZWS Royal Easter Wine Show. Akarua is worth a visit as is the highly impressive Carrick Winery and Restaurant. Here you can enjoy superb cuisine, wonderful Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay and then lounge on the lawn that flows down into the upper reaches of Lake Dunstan. It's a magical spot - don't miss it.

If you still have the energy and a sober driver you could call in to the "factories" in Cromwell where top winemakers Rudi Bauer and Dean Shaw produce so many of the wines that you have seen on the shelves - Two Paddocks, Nevis Bluff, Quartz Reef etc. That's a big day and it well worth remembering its an hours drive back through the Kawarau Gorge.

Day two is much easier because its only 15 minutes from Queenstown out to the Gibbston Valley area where the two original wineries Chard Farm and Gibbston have been joined by Waitiri Creek and the mightily impressive Peregrine. The whole valley is now really only grapes, wineries, the occasional lifestyle block home and brave bungy jumping souls.

The Gibbston Valley winery with its "cave", cheese factory, restaurant and brilliant souvenir shop is world class. It has a location in respect of tourists that could surpass almost anything in the world and the whole set up is quite superb. They do it very well indeed. Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir has been on a roll since the Trophy in 1996. Every year is a winner.

Chard Farm is well worth a visit as long as you're not nervous about driving along mountainous gravel roads with "non recoverable" drops on one side. The Tuscan style tasting room is full of tempting wines to try. Chard Farm is always a very memorable and entertaining stop.

Waitiri Creek at the southern end of the valley has a natty set up and good wines but it's the big white winged roof at the all-new Peregrine winery that catches your eye as you travel along the valley. There is still plenty to be finished at Peregrine, but with what's already in place and the wines that Michelle Richardson will make ensure this is another "essential" visit. On the way back to Queenstown there is another stop that is sure to impress. Amisfield is a fabulous complex set right on the corner that leads to Arrowtown and while the grapes that have been on that site have not proved very successful for table wines, they have found their niche in sparkling wines and also are visually appealing for the huge number of tourists who stop there. Winemaker Jeff Sinnott knows what he's doing so look for Amisfield wines to create a lot of attention in the future.

While the Otago wineries are doing it so well at their home base, they also have the advantage of being right on the doorstep of our premier tourist location and the 150 plus restaurants that are now found in Queenstown, Arrowtown, Wanaka and beyond. If there is one statement that applies to Central Otago and it's wine industry, its probably "don't leave home until you have seen, tasted and experienced the country - Otago style".

Take a Tip
Finding good BYO restaurants has become a challenge these days but on a recent wine tour to the South Island we discovered several that we can highly recommend.

Pedros in Worcester St, Christchurch - nothing has changed at Pedros in more than 2 decades - some of the benchmark dishes are still on the menu after 20 years. The boned shoulder of lamb is legendary - and also very large. Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2002 will complement this dish.

Relishes Restaurant on the shores of Lake Wanaka seems to have been there forever - well 13 years anyway. The food is always high quality but the scallops they serve will match any, anywhere. Felton Road Barrel Fermented Chardonnay is the perfect partner.

@Thai Restaurant, Queenstown, is a brand new addition to the town and it's a classy number. You will not find this place easily, but it's worth seeking out. @Thai is upstairs in the Air NZ building in Church lane - opposite the Wilson car park. The food is ridiculously cheap for Queenstown and, even with a large tour group, every dish was a winner. Medium to medium-sweet Riesling goes with Thai food. Gibbston Valley and Amisfield have lovely Rieslings that are highly recommended.

Kingsley Wood
February 2004